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Brian Kennett
Amateur Chef and Boozy Traveliing Foodie Extraordinaire
On the West coast of Malaysia lies Malacca
Malacca Review: Jonkers Street is the night market in Melacca. It is just an amazing place, and it only takes us about 4 and a half hours to get there by car from Singapore. You really should try to get there if you have not been before.
Recommendation to stay in the old town. I recommend staying at Casa del Rio on the waterfront, and I also recommend eating in the old town.
Malacca Review: Contents
History of Malacca
- A listed UNESCO World Heritage Site since July 2008 (together with George Town of Penang – yep, exactly where Ollie went for his school trip);
- It is located in the Southern region of the Malay Peninsula next to the Straits of Malacca – now I wonder where it got its name, hmmm;
- Malacca is the 3rd smallest state after Perlis and Penang;
- Malacca was very prosperous until those naughty Portuguese came into power (well, conquering it) in 1511, massively removing the power of the Sultans and their very Trade, and then trying to bring in Catholicism – but because of that, there is a Portuguese influence on food and buildings;
- The Dutch then had a go back in 1641 when they kicked out the Portuguese, although not a great deal happened regarding the trade situation. They stayed until 1798;
- In 1824, the Union Jack was erected there, yep, the Dutch handed over to the British from then until something like 1946 – during this time, The British East India Company was running Malacca;
- Malacca is now part of the Federation of Malaysia, following Malaysia’s independence – good on her.
- Malacca is VERY similar to George Town in Penang, Singapore’s Malay Quarter, and most of the Asian shipping ports of its time – it’s just great;
- As a foodie, this is the GREAT part, she is a mix of;
- Dripping with places to visit and hang out;
- St Peter’s Church – Dutch one in 1700s,
- Fort A Famosa – interesting one this, originally Portuguese construction in 1511, us Brits then said tell you what let’s blow the bugger up as we’re new Sherriff’s in town. This action was stopped by the one and only Sir Stamford Raffles, of course, of Singapore fame,
- Tranqerah Mosque – oldest in Malacca,
- Jonker Walk – antique shops and food, oh my goodness, food – this is also where they shut the street on a Saturday night and have the night market, and
- The list goes on, and on…
Melacca Review: our first day
Nasi Ayam Hoe Kee Restaurant Review, Malacca
And to lunch. You know me – where there’s a queue of local-looking people, it has to be good, right? Well, there was a monster at this place. This was the very place Laurence and Kirsty had bought Nina and me with the kids nearly 5 years ago now – my last trip to Melacca. To be honest, it has taken a while to want to go back with memories of here, our last family holiday, as we were.
I had to try it again, but sadly, it did not live up to the memories, as no chicken rice balls and about half of the rest of the menu were sold out. Hmmmmm!!! Still, I love the history of this place.
Mary ordered fish head Nyonya style, which is like a spicy stew. She actually didn’t like it as it was a river fish of some kind and therefore quite earthy tasting. I agree there. Still, it looked pretty good.
Dodal Panas at Jonker's Walk, Malacca
Dodal Panas – looks pretty gross, but tuck in, it’s so nice. I would give my friends in the West a MILLION guesses for this, and I bet you would not have a clue. We bought one of each flavour – one normal and one with Durian (yes, we did!)
Nyonya Dumplings at Jonker's Market, Malacca
- I am tucking into this delicious packet of pork, sticky rice, banana leaf thing which was just scrumptious;
- You cannot see the literally 100’s of people walking towards me (that I can) murmuring under their breath “look at that pretentious Angmo idiot, having a photo with a dumpling”; and
- And because I love the guy to the left, again murmuring “what kind of shirt is that you’re wearing d!ck head?”
Taiwan Han Bao at Jonker's Nightmarket, Malacca
- Stage 1 – Crack the egg into the round hole, which is a series of round holes atop a burner. Add a sprinkling of something. Add some slices of spam and let it cook for a while.
- Stage 2 – Then, in a burner with holes, add some batter and transfer the spam thing from the burner with holes number one into the batter mix as below, and let it cook for a while…
Stage 3 – Repeat back in burner number one some batter mix and flip the thing from burner two on top of that, and again let it cook a while. It takes about two minutes all up, and I had mine finished off with a good squirt of mayo. Whilst it was cooking, I asked to take a picture of the cook, and he sort of turned away and flicked his spatula at me.
It’s like a Taiwanese Egg McMuffin (can’t believe I have compared it to that) – OK, only in looks. Sort of a batter on each side cooked to crispy, then egg and Spam in the middle, with the mayo on top – oh yeah street food to die for – heavenly!
BBQ'd Dried Squid at Jonker's Walk, Malacca
Mmmmmm, these smelled really nice (NOT). X did not mark the spot, the smell did!!! Not really dried fish, it’s these little buggers. Baby squid that have been dried, spiced and then served up following a brief bash and flip on the BBQ to get that smoky coal flavour going on.
Jonker 88 Restaurant: Malacca
This place we tried to get in both days we were there, but the queue at all times was overflowing and up the street on Jonkers Walk – filled with locals, so it must be good. There’s always the next time. “I know where you live, Jonkers 88!”
Even to Japanese octopus balls – deep fried in to little balls in a special skillet, served with bento flakes and some mayo and other sauce – yep we’ll have a tray of them too please!
This guy was amazing, making this sort of honeycomb texture sugar thing. What a proud fellow – even displaying a picture I assume, of his Mother and Father making exactly the same many years previous
Restaurant Nyonya Nancy's Kitchen: Jonker's Walk, Malacca
This was another place we tried to get in for food. Small but perfectly formed it seems… But on later trips, we did indeed get in there. This is even smaller than 88 and potentially with a bigger queue. Stating the bold statement of hand-me-down recipes from mother to mother to daughter. Nancy – I now know where you live again! We’ll be back to sample your Nyonya fare, don’t worry.
Stewed Peanuts STreetfood: Jonker's Walk Malacca
Here every year, this guy sells the same sweetened, stewed monkey nuts. Just the thought of them makes you want to reach for a beer.
Restoran Famosa Chicken Rice Ball: Review, Jonker's Walk
Like the name – “Restoran Famosa Chicken Rice Ball”. Plus, no queue but very busy inside. Gets my vote! Definitely gets my vote – he’s got roast pork too!
Why is it famous, sorry famosa… Because of these little beauties. The world-famous Singaporean chicken rice is taken to new levels (sorry, Singapore). The rice is cooked in chicken stock (massive secret what goes in that), rolled into a ball and steamed/fried to these. I tell you I am not really a massive rice person, but I had 5 of these and ordered 16 takeaway to bring home – absolutely delicious!
Mary enjoyed her kampong chicken. It’s a naturally raised chicken, like organic on steroids. It’s a tad ‘wiry’ for my liking, very lean and therefore served on the bone, and yellow. She gave it a thumbs up. Well, she didn’t actually, as she wouldn’t put her cutlery down for a second!
I was truly in heaven, truly – best meal of the trip – and it was a casual lunch only, I loved it. Seemingly watched on carefully by the Chinese Mafia or the FBI. The chicken with the rice – WOW. Ollie said, “Best I have ever had”.
Malacca Review: Final Thoughts
Ah, Malacca! A city where history isn’t just in the textbooks but practically oozes from the very bricks and mortar. Once upon a time, around the early 15th century, a Sumatran prince named Parameswara decided that being a refugee wasn’t quite his style.
After a bit of kingdom-hopping and perhaps one too many close calls, he stumbled upon a humble fishing village. Legend has it, while lounging under a tree (as one does when contemplating world domination), he witnessed his hunting dog getting the boot from a feisty mouse deer. Taking this as a sign—because, why not?—he founded Malacca right there.
Now, Malacca wasn’t just any port; it became the port. Thanks to its prime spot along the Strait of Malacca, it turned into a bustling hub where traders from Arabia, India, China, and beyond came to swap goods, stories, and probably the occasional recipe. The Ming Dynasty of China even played protector, ensuring Malacca’s safety from pesky neighbors like Siam and Majapahit. This protection wasn’t just for show; it helped Malacca blossom into a major center for trade between China, India, the Middle East, Africa, and Europe.
But, as with all good things, Malacca’s golden age had its interruptions. In 1511, the Portuguese decided they fancied the place and took over, introducing European flavors to the mix. Not to be outdone, the Dutch swung by in 1641, followed by the British in the 19th century. Each left their mark, turning Malacca into a delightful architectural rojak (that’s a Malaysian mixed salad, for the uninitiated). Today, as you wander the streets, you’ll find a smorgasbord of influences—Chinese temples, Portuguese forts, Dutch squares, and British colonial buildings—all standing as testament to Malacca’s rich and varied past.
If you’re a history buff, a foodie, or just someone who appreciates a good mouse deer anecdote, Malacca serves up a true feast for the senses: we love it here. It’s a place where every corner has a story, and every meal is a beautiful bite. Enjoy!!!
